Showing posts with label quince. Show all posts
Showing posts with label quince. Show all posts

Sunday, April 7, 2013

Lamb-stuffed Quince with Coriander & Pomegranate

Lamb-stuffed Quince with Coriander & Pomegranate 2

At last the moment I've been telling you about for the last couple of weeks has arrived - yes, we begin our six month journey at I Heart Cooking Clubs with Yotam Ottolenghi.  Yotam is a new chef to many in our group, and I know that everyone has been pretty excited about getting to know him and his food.  On the other hand, he is no stranger to me - I first discovered his books a couple of years ago and have been cooking from them on a regular basis.  This is a little sampling of some of the dishes I've made and posted from his books Ottolenghi, The Cookbook and Plenty, and with his latest book, Jerusalem, now added to my collection, I'm looking forward to making Ottolenghi a weekly guest in my kitchen.

Ottolenghi Collage 1

Since this is the beginning of a new journey, it seemed only fitting that I should choose a recipe from the new book, Jerusalem.  I had several dishes bookmarked to try, but when I picked up these beauties at the market last week, it seemed like the decision was made for me.

Quince

The recipe for Lamb-stuffed Quince with Coriander and Pomegranate was one that had enticed me from the moment I picked up this book.  This is a Persian inspired dish and everything about it seems exotic and celebratory to me.  In fact, as I was preparing this, channeling my "inner Persian housewife" it occurred to me that although this would not be an "every day" kind of dish, the use of such exotic ingredients as coriander, pomegranate molasses, pomegranate seeds, allspice, cardamom would nevertheless be commonplace store cupboard ingredients in your typical Middle Eastern household.  Although, all of these ingredients are now readily available in specialty stores here, and will have found their way into the pantries of many an adventurous cook, they are still about as far removed from the standard fare of your average Kiwi cook as you could get.

This turned out to be a wonderful dish, but it's definitely a labour of love.  Quince are very "hard" fleshed, and scooping out the flesh is difficult work.  Trust me when I tell you that you don't want to make this dish for someone unless you care for them a great deal.  In the introduction to the recipe Ottolenghi does say, that you can take the easier route, and simply dice the quince flesh and turn the lamb into meatballs, cooking them together in the sauce.  I think I would definitely go this route next time around.

The lamb is spicy and aromatic with the allspice and chilli.  The sauce has that delicious sweet-sour-tangy thing going on with the pomegranate molasses, and the indescribable flavour of the quince.  I thought long and hard about how to describe the flavour of quince, but I'm at a loss.  To say it tastes like a cross between an apple and a pear does not do it justice, and to me it seems that the flavour is as much tied up in the fragrance as just the taste.   You just have to try it for yourself - just don't make the mistake of trying to eat them raw.  They are pretty much inedible and must be cooked.

For a special occasion dish, this is a great one to try, and the perfect use for those quince which make such a brief appearance each year.

A couple of notes about the recipe.  Firstly, the recipe calls for simmering the stuffed quince on the stove-top - I think that in future I would bake them in the oven.   Secondly, the recipe called for simmering them for about 30 minutes.  Having had the experience before of cooking them long and slow, I was actually skeptical that they would cook in that short space of time so didn't bother checking them.   As it turned out, by that time they were a little overcooked, so I would check them after 20 minutes or so.  The original recipe included onions, which I replaced with fennel;  I reduced the number of cardamom pods to four, as cardamom is a strong flavour and the eight originally called for seemed a little excessive to me.  Lastly, you may wonder where I got pomegranate seeds at this time of year - I usually buy a few pomegranates when they're available, remove the seeds and stash them in the freezer, ready to sprinkle through salads and other dishes at any time.

Lamb-stuffed Quince with Coriander & Pomegranate 3

Lamb-stuffed Quince with Coriander & Pomegranate Recipe
Adapted from a recipe by Yotam Ottolenghi from
Click here for a printable copy of this recipe

500g minced lamb
1x clove garlic, finely chopped
1x hot red chilli, deseeded (optional) & finely chopped
large handful fresh coriander, roughly chopped
(plus extra for garnish)
1 cup fresh breadcrumbs (I used panko)
1 teaspoon ground allspice
4cm (1-1/2 in.) piece ginger, grated
1x large fennel bulb
1x large free-range egg, lightly beaten
1 large juicy lemon
3 or 4 quince, depending on size
3 tablespoons olive oil
4x cardamom pods
2 teaspoons pomegranate molasses
2 teaspoons brown sugar
500ml (1 pint) chicken or vegetable stock
seeds of 1/2 a pomegranate
flaky sea salt
freshly ground black pepper

Discard the tough outer "leaves" of the fennel bulb, and cut the bulb in half.  Cut one half into very small dice (in the same way that you would an onion), and slice the other half as thinly as you can (a mandoline is ideal for this if you have one).

Put the lamb in a medium sized mixing bowl.  Add the finely chopped garlic and chilli, coriander, breadcrumbs, ground allspice, half of the grated ginger, the diced fennel, the egg, a generous pinch of flaky sea salt and a good grind of black pepper.  Mix everything together until well combined (your hands are the best tools for this job), and set aside.

Cut the lemon in half and squeeze the juice from both halves - don't discard the shells.  Reserve one tablespoon of the juice, and add the rest to a medium sized bowl filled with cold water.  Cut the quince in half lengthwise - keeping any pieces you are not working with in the acidulated water.  Using a small spoon (or melon baller if you have one) scoop out the seeds and discard.  Now continue to scoop out more of the flesh, leaving a shell approximately 1cm (1/3 in) thick - the flesh is very hard and this is not easy - I found using a small, sharp knife and "chiseling" it out worked best. As you work, keep rubbing the cut surface of the quince with the squeezed-out lemon shells.  Don't discard the quince flesh that you scoop out - drop that into the bowl of acidulated water too.

Now drain the hollowed-out quince shells briefly and pat dry with a paper towel.  Fill the shells with the lamb mixture, using your hands to press it in quite firmly.

Lamb-stuffed Quince with Coriander & Pomegranate

Drain the remaining quince flesh from the water and put into the food processor.  Blitz until quite finely chopped.

Heat the olive oil in a large frypan over medium heat.  Add the minced up quince flesh, remaining ginger and sliced fennel, and cardamom pods.  Saute until the fennel has softened completely - about 5-10 minutes.  Now add the pomegranate molasses, sugar, the reserved tablespoon of lemon juice, stock, another generous pinch of flaky sea salt, and a good grind of black pepper.

Now, nestle the quince halves in amongst the sauce, with the stuffed side uppermost.   Reduce the heat to a simmer, cover and cook for about 30 minutes (check after 20 minutes), until the meat is cooked through, the quince soft and the sauce reduced.  If necessary, remove the stuffed quince from the sauce and increase the heat in order to reduce the sauce further.

Best served warm rather than hot, so allow it to cool a little before serving.  Garnish with extra chopped coriander and a sprinkling of pomegranate seeds.


If you would like to get to know Yotam Ottolenghi a little better, then do go and visit my friends at I Heart Cooking Clubs and see what they've all cooked up ...

IHCC Ottolenghi Leek Badge resized

... or check out Jerusalem and Ottolenghi's other great titles available from Amazon USA, Amazon UK or Fishpond NZ.

          Jerusalem 


I'm also sharing this post at See Ya In the Gumbo hosted by the lovely Michelle at Ms. enPlace.

See Ya in The Gumbo Badge

Saturday, April 21, 2012

Slow-Roasted Quince with Cinnamon & Orange & Cookbook Sundays # 20

Roasted Quince with Cinnamon & Orange

I don't think anyone has ever described autumn better than the English Romatic poet, John Keats, who in his poem "To Autumn" describes it as "Season of mists and mellow fruitfulness".  This is indeed a time when the light is softer, misty mornings give way to glorious golden days, and trees are laden with fruit, including one of my favourites - quinces.

It also seems like a time for reflection - a time when, after the summer months, we begin to retreat indoors, slow down and take stock.  And I have much to reflect on this autumn.

IMG_1596

This is a photo of my beautiful cousin Cindy, marrying her partner of some 20 years, back in late September.  Sadly, at the time of their wedding, Terry was in the final stages of his battle with lung cancer and died just two days after the wedding.  What a bitter-sweet occasion that was.  For most of us there, we knew that this would quite possibly be the last time we would see Terry alive, but despite the sadness the occasion was a real opportunity for us all to share some celebration with Terry before his passing.

Dad, Me, Aunty Helen

This is a photo of me taken at that wedding with my Dad and my Aunty Helen.  I'm tempted to say she is my favourite aunty, but in truth I have several aunties and I love each of them in their own way.  Still Aunty Helen has a special place in my heart.  She is the youngest of my father's siblings, and when I was younger I thought she was the absolute epitome of glamour.  Before the grey, she was a stunning redhead, and I wouldn't go quite so far as to say she was the family "wild child" but there was, and still is, definitely a naughtiness about her.  As a younger woman she had a shoe collection that could have rivaled Imelda Marcos, and as a talented seamstress her wardrobe was enviable.  I recall times as a teenager when Aunty Helen would come to stay.  Much to my delight she would share my room, and I would sit on the bed gaping in awe as she unpacked something like 15 pairs of shoes and 10 cocktail dresses for a one week stay.  She would go off on dates or out to dances, and the minute she left the house I would dive into the bedroom to try on all the shoes and frocks.  I can remember occasions as a child, when I was probably being a little trying, when my mother would put her hands on her hips, look at me with absolute exasperation, and say "You've just like your Aunty Helen".  I'm pretty sure it wasn't intended as a compliment, but I was always secretly delighted.

Sadly now, my dear Aunty Helen is rapidly approaching the end of the autumn of her life.  She has been diagnosed with a very rare disease, always fatal.  In the time since that photo was taken, barely six months ago, she has deteriorated rapidly and what remains now of her life can be measured in days and weeks rather than years.  I'm grateful to have the memory of sitting with her at Cindy and Terry's wedding, laughing, reminiscing, and listening to some of her naughty jokes, and am reminded that the things we take for granted in this life can be over in an instant.  The importance of slowing down, cherishing the now, and taking time to smell the quinces can never be overstated.

And so, enough reflection, on with the quince.  If you've never tried quince before I urge you to do so.  I guess the fruit is something like a cross between an apple and a pear, but the taste is really nothing like either.  In fact it's impossible to liken it to anything else.   A bowl of quince on your kitchen bench will fill the whole room with its fragrance, and the perfume as these quince roast for 8 hours is nothing short of heavenly.

Roasted Quince with Cinnamon & Orange 3

This recipe is from one of my favourite cookbooks, "Maggie's Kitchen" by Maggie Beer, and is my contribution this week to Cookbook Sundays - keep reading to read more and particpate.

Maggie's Kitchen

Slow-Roasted Quince with Cinnamon & Orange Recipe
Adapted from recipe by Maggie Beer from
Click here for a printable copy of this recipe

1.5kg (3.3 lb) quince
2 lemons, juice of
600 ml (20 fl oz)water
1x orange
400g (14 oz) caster sugar
1x cinnamon stick

Preheat oven, on regular bake, to 90 degrees C (194 degrees F).

Peel and core the quinces (reserving the peels and cores), and cut the fruit into eighths.  Pour and rub lemon juice over the fruit as you work to stop them browning.

Tie the quince cores and peels up in a large piece of muslin, and place in a stainless steel saucepan.  Using a vegetable peeler, remove the zest of the orange in wide strips, and add to the pan, along with the juice of the orange, the water, caster sugar and cinnamon.  Bring to the boil, then reduce heat to medium and simmer for 15 minutes or until syrupy.  Remove the muslin bag and discard it.  Reserve the cinnamon stick and orange zest.

Put the quince pieces into a shallow baking dish - choose one which is just big enough for all the quince to fit snugly in a single layer.  Add the reserved zest and cinnamon, and enough of the syrup for the quince to be roughly three quarters deep in the syrup.  Cover closely with a piece of baking paper, cut to fit inside the dish and tucking in the edges.

Roast for 8 to 9 hours, turning from time to time, until the quince have turned a rich ruby colour and tender, and the pan juices are syrupy.  If necessary, remove the paper and increase the oven temperature to 120 degrees C (250 degrees F) for the final hour.

Serve with good quality vanilla ice cream, yoghurt or vanilla-infused mascarpone.

Roasted Quince with Cinnamon & Orange 2


I'm sharing these quince this week at Cookbook Sundays, where my friends are delving into their cookbook collections and sharing some of their recipes.  Do keep reading to see what they're cooking - you might even feel inspired to link up a recipe from one of your own cookbooks.

CookbookSundays

I am also sharing this post with Sweet New Zealand, a monthly blog event created by the very lovely Alessandra Zecchini, and which this month is hosted by Frances at Bake Club. This is an opportunity for all Kiwi bloggers (whether you are living in New Zealand or overseas), as well as for non-Kiwi bloggers living in New Zealand, to connect and share some of those sweet treats from your kitchen.  So, head on over and share something sweet.  And because all good things are made to be shared around, I am also sharing them at See Ya in The Gumbo hosted by my lovely friend Michele at Ms. enPlace, and at Foodie Friday hosted by Designs by Gollam.  Anybody else want a share?


Sweet New Zealand Badge A      See Ya in The Gumbo Badge        Foodie Friday Badge


Cookbook Sundays Badge 

If you're anything like me you have dozens of cookbooks gathering dust on your bookshelves, some of which have never even been cooked from.  Sure I spent hours browsing through them when I first bought them, marking all the recipes I was going to make with little post-it notes, and yet still those books languish in the bookcase and never make it to the kitchen.  There are others from which I have made but one recipe which was such a resounding success that I've made it over and over again, and yet somehow I've never made anything else from that book.  Sound a bit familiar?!

Take comfort - you are not alone, and now Cookbook Sundays is your opportunity to change that.  Every Sunday I'm going to share with you a recipe that I haven't made before from one of my ever expanding collection of cookbooks.  And, because I know that if you have read this far then you are guilty of this too, I'm inviting you to join in with me.  Each week my Cookbook Sundays post will have a linky for you to share something you've cooked from one of your cookbooks.

The rules for joining in are simple:
  1. Your post must state the author and the title of the book your recipe has come from.
  2. Your post must mention Cookbook Sundays and link back to this post.  Including the Cookbook Sundays badge is optional, but always appreciated.
  3. You may submit as many entries as you like, and you may use the same cookbook as many times as you like.  Old posts are also welcome.
  4. Lastly,  remember that what goes around, comes around - one of the reasons you are participating in this is because you want people to read your posts, so do the right thing and go and visit a few of the other participants - you can even "Like" your favourites. 
Now, go and dust off those cookbooks and get cooking!  Use the linky tool at the end of this post to submit your entry/entries - simply scroll down to where it says "You are next ... Click here to enter", and then follow the instructions.  The linky will be open for one week.

Lastly, if you would like to use the Cookbook Sundays badge in your post, simply copy the code in the box beside the badge below and paste it into your post.  Feel free to also use it in your sidebar if you wish.

CookbookSundays